Peel Off!

Posted: Friday 25 November 2011 10:54am

The humble pumpkin, staple of the Sunday roast, traditional pie served at American tables on Thanksgiving and the symbol of Halloween, is now the latest weapon in the war on skin ageing.

The Pumpkin Peel promises to brighten skin within as little as one treatment; within six treatments, it aims to restore radiance and rejuvenate a tired complexion, and help clarify skin, relieve acne and banish congestion.

The “lunchtime” clinic/salon treatment works by using a combination of several different acids, all of a different molecular size.

“This allows the peel to work on the skin at different depths,” explains Will Fennell from Will and Peta salon in Sydney. “It combines lactic and salicylic acids with an enzymatic pumpkin pulp, as well as vitamin A, which is a powerful skin cell regulator.”

The peel is administered in two strengths: “We start clients off with a three per cent strength,” explains Will. “This is usually if their skin is unaccustomed to using Acids or Vitamin A. After one or two peels, we gauge how their skin responds, then we take it up to a 10 per cent strength, which really ramps up the action and benefits of the peel.”

The treatment itself can be administered as a quick lunchtime peel – cleanse, peel, hydrate and apply sun protection – or integrated into a wellness rejuvenation facial, which includes 20 minutes under the Omnilux Revive LED lamp, which helps to trigger the skin’s repair responses.

“The peel has basically ‘burned’ the skin,” explains Will. “It’s created trauma, so that the skin repairs itself in a normal, younger, healthier state. The light speeds up its repair responses, which then boosts production of collagen and elastin.”

Following the Omnilux Light, skin is massaged for 20 minutes, using a nourishing cream suited to individual skin type.

“If someone has congestion or acne, we would use a purifying product. For anti-ageing or radiance infusing, we would look at a product containing Squalene, Shea butter or vitamins, which are deeply hydrating, healing and restorative.

“It’s all about damaging skin with peel, then helping it rebuild itself. It is renewing and rebuilding.”

One peel will leave skin better hydrated, more radiant and clarified, with less congestion, however, for best results, invest in a series of six, over six weeks, suggests Fennell.

“A series will result in incredible luminosity and brightening of the skin, which comes from removal of skin cells and the actions of vitamin A regulating their shape and health as they renew themselves.

“Salicylic Acid will clear the pores, while the lactic acid encourages hydration from deep within the skin, plumping out fine lines and softening the appearance of wrinkles. You also receive long term plumping from the rebuilding of collagen.” Pumpkin Peels cost around $99 each. Phone 1300 799 709 for salon locations.

Peels in general can help you shed layers of damage, whether your concern is lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, enlarged pores, congestion and blemishes  or a generally tired, dull complexion.

From at-home care, to the beauty therapist or the dermatologist, you can restore glowing, radiant, younger-looking skin with minimum time and expense.

“Peels offer great benefit for a variety of conditions,” explains Sydney dermatologist Dr Jo-Ann See. “They can help clear acne, reverse photo ageing, soften lines and improve both the appearance and feel of the skin.”

Today, peel formulations range from herbal, botanical, vitamin and acid-based, either glycolic, salicylic or lactic. At-home peels are buffered to activate only to certain strengths and times, as are peels performed in a salon, which tend to be slightly stronger than self-administered peels.

Medical strength peels are the strongest and most effective. They generally require down-time, can be uncomfortable and must be administered by a dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon or cosmetic nurse, who will closely monitor activating time and pre-and post-peel care.

But even mild-strength home peels can cause sun-sensitivity, so it is important to be cautious duing the summer months in particular. “You’re exposing new skin,” says Dr See. “You need to protect it. Stay out of the sun immediately after your peel, and always apply sun block the next day before venturing outside.”

Depending on strength you require, you can begin your peel program at-home. Simply apply according to the instructions that come with the formula.

“We then recommend as people begin to see benefits, they take it up a level, going to a salon peel and then even a medical strength peel,” says Dr See.

SALON TREATMENTS

Aside from the new Pumpkin Peel, others to consider:

•   The Peptide Peel (between $125 and $150 per peel)
This uses glycolic and lactic acids, peptides and hyaluronic acids to stimulate collagen production within deeper layers of the skin. It targets sun damage, fine lines, and wrinkles, dry and dehydrated skin and some sensitive skin conditions. It is not painful, and a facial can be performed at the same time. There is no shedding; rather, the AHAs allow the peptides to work within the dermis. Within 24 hours skin appears brighter, smoother and more toned. A series of six treatments once every two weeks is recommended for best results, with maintenance programs recommended every six months. Call: 1300 799 709.

•   The Stem Cell Peel (from $150)
A resurfacing treatment that address ageing and acne, this relies on botanically derived stem cells (from lilac leaves) together with a glycolic acid resurfacer and anti-inflammatory, soothing plant extracts to help trigger human stem cell activity and regeneration, improve the tone and texture of the skin and soften the signs of ageing. There may be mild shedding, but this is rare. The peel is left on between five to 10 minutes, depending on the skin issues and the client can return to work immediately afterwards. Results are evident after one peel, in that radiance is restored, sallowness minimised and skin tone improved, but for best results, a series of six treatments over six weeks is suggested. Call: 1300 799 709.

•   The Herbal Aktiv Peel ($699, which includes three at-home skin maintenance products and a post-treatment).
This relies on a solution of natural stimulants, exfoliants and regenerating and soothing herbs, which is massaged into the skin to trigger a peeling, resurfacing effect. The downtime of the peel is five days, with a reddening and tightening of the skin, similar to sunburn, experienced up until Day 3, when shedding occurs.  On Day Five, a follow up facial removes any traces of flaking skin and a newer, fresher skin is revealed. Call: 03 9645 0200.

MEDICAL PEELS

•   Priori Forte Lactic Acid Chemical Peel, $160
A medical strength peel that uses seventy-five per cent lactic acid, this must only be performed by a paramedically trained beauty therapist, clinical nurse or cosmetic physician. It offers advanced exfoliation, normalising skin renewal rates, hydrating skin from within and decreasing signs of ageing. There is some mild tingling, but there is no shedding or downtime. Lines and wrinkles appear softened and skin becomes more radiant and firmer. Results will last and improve with home use of the prescribed Priori Forte skin care range. A course of weekly peels over four weeks will maximise results. Call: 1800 808 993

•    Vitamin A Peel (approximately $250 per peel, not including pre and post skin care).
This medium-depth peel is associated with minimal downtime, as skin is prepped for two weeks prior to treatment with vitamin A skin care, so it becomes accustomed to topical vitamin A. On treatment day a combination of high strength Vitamin A and lactic acid is applied to skin from between three to twenty minutes. “Skin already has receptors for vitamin A, so the peeling on medium depth level happens immediately,” says Lisa Sullivan-Smith from The Clinic in Bondi Junction, Sydney. “Most people experience light shedding and dry skin, which clears up within a week to reveal rejuvenated, retexturised skin with softened lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.” Three peels over three weeks are advised for best results. Assuming a healthy lifestyle is followed, home care vitamin A is used and clients stay out of the sun, results should remain fresh for up to six months. For longer-lasting results, one maintenance peel every six months is recommended.  Call: 02 9386 1533

AT HOME PEELS

•    Clinique Turnaround Radiance Peel Once-a-Week System, $110. A two-phase glycolic peel that leaves skin smoother, more even-toned and radiant.
•    La Prairie Cellular 3 Minute Peel, $300. This AHA/BHA peel works in three minutes to refresh the skin, rejuvenate, rehydrate and protect.

OTHER SKIN-REFINING OPTIONS

While peels offer stellar results in terms of skin refining, rejuvenation and restoration, there are other options available.

-   Proteolytic Enzyme Treatment, from $100
This facial uses a resurfacing formula made up of paw paw and a proteolytic enzyme. “The enzyme recognises dead skin cells from healthy tissue and goes across the surface of the skin like a little Pacman, very gently removing any dead keratinised layer and leaving a fresh healthy skin,” explains cosmedic nurse Claire O’Mara, from All Saints Cosmedical Clinic in Darlinghurst, Sydney. “It is great to use a few days after resurfacing lasers and chemical peels ads it will cut down shedding time and amplify the benefits. It takes the skin off gently and immediately.” It can also be performed as a singular procedure too, to offer smoother, fresher more refined skin. Call: 02 9357 7557

-    Microhydrabrasion, RRP $129
Similar to microdermabrasion, this procedure uses a diamond tipped wand, together with aloe and water to remove the outer dead layers of the skin that cause dullness, and a poor, rough texture. “The tip of the wand is moved over the skin to deeply exfoliate and clean out the pores, while the aloe and the water soothe and cool,” says Will Fennel. “The cooling action allows for a deeper dermabrasion, which facilitates better absorption of treatments creams, promotes collagen production and cell renewal and creates brightening of a skin. There is no downtime – it’s perfect to have the day before a big event.”
One treatment will provide immediate results, but for maximum benefit, six treatments over six weeks is advised. Call: 02 9388 0221.

by Jenni Gilbert

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