Collagen Induction Therapy
Posted: Monday 5 April 2010 10:17am
Collagen production is the cornerstone of most anti-ageing treatments.
As we age, the collagen in our body decreases, which can lead to saggy, wrinkled and flaccid skin. To ensure our skin retains its youthful plumpness, smoothness and form, it’s important to undergo treatments which work on increasing collagen production.
Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) is a term given to procedures which stimulate the skin to produce new collagen.
Sean Abel, National Training Manager for Clinic Care, likens CIT to a goose down pillow.
“Over time the pillow gets flat and loses its shape. More feathers need to be added to plump it up,” he says. That’s what it’s like with trying to build up collagen production in the face. Good collagen supplies equal plumpness in the skin.”
Likewise Dr Jeremy Cumpston, of Ageless Clinics says, “Lotions and potions will reduce ageing by limiting oxidative stress, but you need a treatment that actually allows you to build you own collagen and elastin, which are the building blocks of plump healthy-looking skin.”
It’s important to note, as collagen can take time to grow deep within the skin, you won’t see instant results. Benefits can be seen over a period of four weeks to six months.
DERMAROLLER
What is it: Similar in appearance to a mini paint roller, the Dermaroller is embedded with 192 ultra fine needles. Says Sean Abel, “Dermaroller is like acupuncture, but a lot more extreme. Just one treatment can stimulate collagen production by 200% to 1,000%.”
Who’s it for: For all skin types from fair to dark, and even dark skins that can’t have laser work. Great for anyone who wants firmer, plumper skin. Perhaps not suitable for people with a needle adversion.
Claims: Reduce lines and wrinkles, smooth and refine skin, regulate oil flow, minimise size of pores, help with pigmentation concerns.
What’s involved: A topical anesthetic cream is applied to the face for 20 to 30 minutes. The patient will then have the Dermaroller rolled over the face, with each part of the face needled about 15 to 20 times. There is no pain, but you will feel the pressure of the gadget as it’s applied to the skin. Afterwards you may be given a mask, or some clinics offer a soothing 20-minute Omnilux treatment. Treatment time can vary from 45 to 90 minutes depending on the options selected. You will leave your treatment wearing a daycream and sunscreen.
Downtime: You can return to work immediately, but you’ll look sunburnt for at least 24 hours.
Risks and side effects: Says Sean, “The Derma-roller is completely safe, but there are rare cases when people have reactions to the numbing cream.” Since the tiny pricking channels close within one house, post-op infections are unlikely.
Preparations: None
Don’t forget to ask: There are some copy-cat products on the market, so make certain you have the genuine Derma-roller.
Treatments required: Three treatments are usually required, six to eight weeks apart.
Complications: Rare, but if you unwittingly succumb to a copy cat treatment, the needles on the equipment may not be quite as fine, which can cut the skin, rather than puncture it, which could lead to scarring.
Optimal results: Full results from one treatment are achieved after six weeks.
Ballpark cost: A clinical beauty salon treatment begins at $600. Cosmetic clinics and plastic surgeons can offer deeper treatments, starting at $800. A homecare Derma-roller, $225, is available at selected beauty and cosmetic clinics.
FRAXEL
What is it: Fraxel delivers multiple pinpoints of laser energy – like thousands of superfine acupuncture needles – that penetrate to the deeper dermal layer of the skin. The laser targets water in the dermal layer and causes pinpoint heating. “The only thing that can cause the skin to product new collagen and elastin is something that penetrates the dermis and causes mechanical or thermal stress,” says Dr Jeremy Cumpston, of Ageless Clinics. The new Fraxel Re:store Dual system introduces the thulium laser fibres to remove pigment at the epidermal/dermal junction. “Deep treatments aimed at improving collagen and elastin formation and superficial treatments can be combined to get optimal results regardless of skin type or condition,” says Dr Cumpston.
Who’s it for: “Known as the cougar’s secret weapon against ageing, Fraxel works for all skin types, but is best suited to people who have acne or other scarring, women with pigmentation issues – from the Pill or pregnancy – and women in the 35 years-plus bracket who want to improve the skin on their hands, neck, décolletage and face,” says Dr Cumpston.
Claims: Reduction in age-related signs, and rebuilding of collagen and elastin in the skin.
What’s involved: After a consultation pre-treatment, a numbing cream is applied to the face, which stays on for 45 minutes. After this, the Fraxel laser is rolled over the area. “The treatment requires multiple ‘passes’ of the laser over the face,” says Dr Cumpston. “The sensation is one of prickling initially, then slight heat.” The treatment takes about 15 minutes for face, hands, neck or décolletage.
Downtime: One to two days of redness and mild swelling, followed by five to 7 days of light peeling.
Risks and side effects: As the Fraxel is a medical grade laser it has the potential to cause excess thermal damage or burning if the settings are not properly applied. “Go to medical practitioners with licences and training to use these powerful lasers,” says Dr Cumpston.
Preparations: None
Don’t forget to ask: The experience of the operator
Treatments required: Two to five treatments are recommended, two to six weeks apart.
Complications: “Very deep treatments, that is for severe acne scarring, can cause pigmentation increases, but this is normal and can be resolved with 1 – 2 thulium fibres passes,” says Dr Cumpston.
Optimal results: After redness and swelling subsides you skin will be softer and brighter. “For pigmentation/age spots, best results are after one to two treatments,” says Dr Cumpston. For treating acne and fine lines, it’s best after five treatments. “It’s a long-haul treatment but results are excellent and achieved with a degree of subtlety.”
Ballpark cost: $750 to $1,000 an area.
THERMAGE
What is it: A non-invasive skin tightening procedure that uses capacitive radiofrequency (CRF) technology called ThermaCool to heat up the collagen in the deeper layers of the skin and its underlying tissue, while simultaneously protecting the outer layer of the skin with a cooling system. The heating action causes deep structures in the skin to tighten. Says Dr Michael Zacharia, President of the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine, “There is nothing else non-invasive that tightens the skin like Thermage. It is definitely the gold standard in non-surgical skin tightening procedures.”
Who’s it for: Those who need skin tightening, firming contouring and definition, and have fine lines.
Claims: Unparalleled non-invasive skin tightening
What’s involved: You may have an anaesthetic cream applied beforehand. Then a treatment tip is moved over the skin, delivering a controlled amount of CRF energy. You feel a brief, deep heating sensation as the energy is delivered to the skin, and then the skin is cooled down. The deep heating action is an indication that your collagen is reaching effective temperatures for tightening. The treatment takes up to 60 minutes.
Downtime: Mild redness afterwards, which subsides within hours. You can return to work immediately.
Risks and side effects: Can be used on patients of all skin types, but choose a good practitioner, as the skin could be burnt if the practitioner misjudges the amount of energy delivered to the skin.
Preparations: None
Don’t forget to ask: How experienced they are with the treatment.
Treatments required: One treatment only.
Complications: This is a safe treatment but some people report swelling, blisters or bumps, but this subsides in a few days or weeks.
Optimal results: You skin will immediately feel tighter, and smoother, but best results are two to six months later
Ballpark cost: $3,500 for the full face.
BEAUTY MOUSE
What is it: A beauty gadget that looks like a computer mouse, Beauty Mouse is embedded with 480 ultra-fine micro needles, with a rolling width of 50mm, meaning you can cover larger body areas quite quickly. The devise is designed to be rolled over cellulite-prone areas, helping to stimulate microcirculation and to deliver active substances into deeper layers of the skin.
Who’s it for: Anyone who suffers from cellulite and lack of body firmness.
Claims: Firmer skin in four weeks.
What’s involved: After showering, on clean skin, apply the Dermaquest Dermafirm anti-cellulite cream, $150, to cellulite prone areas. Then roll the Beauty Mouse over the required areas. As the needles are 0.2mm in depth, the process of penetrating the top layer of the skin, creating micro-channels to allow substances to gain deeper access in the skin, is painless.
Downtime: None
Risks and side effects: “Due to the large amount of needles involved, we advise that people use the device only once a day,” says Sean Abel, of Clinic Care.
Preparations: Perform on clean, dry skin.
Treatments required: Use daily for as long as required.
Complications: None
Optimal results: Said to achieve firmer skin in four weeks. “You’ll definitely see a reduction in lumps and bumps and significantly smoother skin,” says Sean.
Ballpark cost: Beauty Mouse is $285. As continued used will lead to the needles getting blunt, aim to replace your Beauty Mouse every summer. If using year-round, replace every six months. Dermaquest DermaFirm, $150. Available at selected beauty and cosmetic clinics or call Clinic Care on 1300 799 709.
CUTERA PEARL FUSION
What is it? Combines both Pearl and Pearl Fractional laser, this ablative laser therapy is designed for full facial epidermal skin renewal. Says Dr Hkeik, of All Saints Cosmedical, Parramatta and Darlinghurst, “Pearl treats the top layer of the skin with pulses of light to remove sun damage and brown spots, while Pearl Fractional laser uses heat to create tiny holes in the skin, to remove sun-damaged tissue and stimulate new skin and fresh collagen.”
Who’s it for: Those who want to improve sun-damage, pore size, fine lines, wrinkles, and to plump and firm the skin. It’s best on light to medium skin tones. “Patients with dark skin or a history of melasma or keloid scarring are inappropriate candidates,” says Dr Hkeik.
Claims: Skin is plumped, smoothed, firmed and lines and wrinkles are reduced.
What’s involved: A topical numbing cream is applied to the skin prior to treatment. Depending on your pain tolerance, your doctor may give you pain medication. The Pearl Fractional laser uses heat of the skin to create tiny holes deep in the skin. The Pearl laser is pulsed all over the skin and can feel like a series of fast, hot pinches. Immediately after treatment, a natural dressing forms on the skin to protect the treated area and prevent a wound. Ointment must be applied to the skin for four to five days afterwards. On day three or four the natural dressing will peel off, revealing new baby-soft skin underneath.
Downtime: Immediately after, the skin will appear sunburnt and swollen. This lasts about four days. Ointment needs to be applied for four or five days. Expect five to seven days recovery time. Make-up can be applied five days after treatment.
Risks and side effects: You’ll be sun sensitive, so it’s important to always apply sunscreen.
Preparations: “Patients with cold sores need to use an oral anti-viral medication to prevent cold sores after the treatment,” says Dr Hkeik. “Skin can be prepped with topical AHAs and BHAs to increase cellular turnover of the skin, and retinoids to reduce cellular damage in the dermis and improve the quality of the skin revealed after the epidermis sloughs away.”
Treatments required: One treatment only.
Complications: Infection in rare cases.
Optimal results: Many patients see an improvement after one week, and improvement is noticed three to six months afterwards as collagen production improves.
Ballpark cost: $2,800
OMNILUX PLUS
What is it: Omnilux Plus is a gentle but powerful light therapy treatment that uses a specially designed light based on a matrix of Infra red Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs). This non-invasive phototherapy treatment is based on athermal energy.
Who’s it for: Anyone who wants to firm and tighten skin, improve skin texture, and get a healthy, radiant glow. Perfect for mature skin showing signs of ageing. “Omnilux is what every woman wants – a natural method of skin rejuvenation using the body’s natural processes to give skin back the collagen we lose with age,” says Christine Snow, Regulatory and Training Manager at True Solutions. “Younger, more radiant skin in three weeks (with no injections, bruising or knife involved). It fools your friends every time.”
Claims: Skin regeneration and deep tightening of the tissues beneath the skin.
What’s involved: Your face is cleansed, then the Omnilux Plus light is situated just above your face and décolletage. Your eyes will be covered with glasses and you can just lie back and relax, as you feel the light on your face. Totally painless and completely soothing – even more so, when the therapist massages your arms or feet during the treatment. After the 20-minute treatment, moisturiser and sunblock are applied.
Downtime: None
Risks and side effects: None
Preparations: None
Treatments required: A course of eight to 10, 20-minute treatments is recommended.
Complications: None
Optimal results: You’ll be glowing and radiant straight afterwards and over four weeks your skin will visibly tighten.
Ballpark cost: $90 to $120 per treatment.
by Kate Mahon