Big Kiss

Posted: Tuesday 2 November 2010 07:46am

Angelina’s is usually the name on everyone lips when asked to nominate a standout pout; lush and bee-stung, both Mother Earth and Sex Goddess.

According to a scientific survey released this year, fuller lips also make a woman look more youthful.

The Unilever-funded study, conducted at seven universities, made the findings after analysing the faces of 162 white British women aged 45 to 75 as well as 102 pairs of Dutch female twins between the ages of 59 and 81.

Scientists found that “lip height” was controlled by genes, with men and women reaching their full lip volume in young adulthood.

Lips begin to shrink between the ages of 30 and 40 for most people  the study reportedly found, causing a person to look older than they are (supporting speculation that Angelina, 35, may have had human intervention in recent years to maintain her mouth’s divine dimensions).

“When we identified people who looked young for their age, we were struck by the difference in their lips,” Unilever research scientist David Gunn said.

Of course, we haven’t needed a bunch of scientists all these years – centuries, in fact – to alert us to the lure of lush lips. And with the advent of injectable dermal fillers over the past 20-something years it has been possible to  improvise what God didn’t grant. And not always with pretty results – take the trout pout phenomenon.

One who fell prey was American TV star Lisa Rinna, who underwent surgery in August to fillet the trout in her pout she inadvertently acquired more than 20 years ago; her lips, she felt, “had started to define who I am.”.

She wasn’t wrong about that. A youthful whim at 25 to emulate Barbara Hershey’s pillow lips in the Bette Midler movie Beaches initially reaped thrilling results. “Plump and beautiful,” as Lisa has said.

It was the late 80s, when injectable dermal fillers were in their genesis, and Lisa’s upper lip was augmented with silicone. Uh oh …

Free-range silicone in faces and breasts (or anywhere but building works and household odd jobs) has long proved to be A Very Bad Idea, as Priscilla Presley will also attest.

Eventually, the silicone seeped and hardened, forming scar tissue and turning Lisa’s upper lip into something of a caricature. Swollen larger than her lower one, it distorted the natural symmetry and made her mouth the magnetic focal point of her face (physically, and of considerable ridicule for many years).

Her husband, fellow actor Harry Hamlin, has said Lisa’s lips never bothered him; it was her beautiful eyes that captured his attention and have kept.his focus through 13 years of marriage (it wouldn’t hurt, either, that 47-year-old, mum of two Lisa has one of Hollywood’s hottest bodies …)..

But to the world at large, Lisa’s lips preceded her. When I interviewed the actress for a magazine in the late 90s, I vowed to myself that I wouldn’t stare at her mouth. Yet as I sat across the table at lunch, I was compelled. It wasn’t that, in the flesh, it looked bad or anywhere near as big as legend (and many photos) would have it. As lovely to look at and funny, nice and interesting as she was, however, I still found myself interviewing Lisa’s upper lip.

She once commented that her lips “made me who I am” and, for better and worse, Lisa was right. Although she looks fabulous post-op – her surgeon recontoured and reduced the volume by about 30 per cent – with her old mouth back she just doesn’t look like her old self, of the latter 20 years, anyway.

Having made her name in legendary daytime soap Days Of Our Lives in the early 90s, followed by a headline-grabbing stint on hit TV series Melrose Place (1996-98), Lisa managed to keep her celebrity profile front and centre throughout the Noughties despite the lack of prominent roles (she and her spouse are currently promoting their new reality TV series in the US, Harry Loves Lisa). We can’t discount the lip factor …

While a stunning, entrepreneurial Hollywood actress has been able to parlay such misfortune into an arguable career move, there are no such “fairytale” outcomes in real life. A botched or inappropriate cosmetic enhancement looks plain botched or inappropriate, with attendant physical discomfort and emotional distress.

If the beckoning of summer invites putting more kiss into sun-kissed glow, and are considering non-surgical lip augmentation with dermal fillers, consideration and moderation are key.

Successful cosmetic enhancement of the lips – as any part of the body – is an art form and tailored to an invidual’s proportions and personality.

“Most women patients of mine would prefer to have no enhancement at all rather than have a treatment that appears obvious or ‘done’,” says Dr Jospeh Hkiek of Sydney’s All Saints Cosmedical clinics.

“In general, this is down to the practitioner and their experience and technique.  The latest high-tech products (such as Esthélis with CPM technology) here allow very superficial injecting which will smooth out fine lines, like those on the upper lip without the tell-tale side effects (lumps, cordons and the blue tinge)  of products popular even five years ago. In order to get a results that is very ‘obvious’ you really have to set out with that intention.”

Walking into a doctor’s surgery these days brandishing a photo of an actress’s power pout that you want planted on your own is not going to get you very far, says Dr Hkeik.

“I would give her the reasons behind my advice and how detrimental it would be to balance and harmony in her face. If not convinced,I would allow a two-week cooling off period for her to think through her decision. In most instances they return for a more conservative approach.”

Dr Parmar of Manly Cosmetic and Laser Clinic in Sydney adds: “Generally patients agree with the advice of their injector. Sometimes, however, when the expectation is inappropriate then we have two options, either decline  treatment and refer them to another doctor for a second opinion or start with a small amount and gradually build up at the next appointment, say two weeks later.

“Also, it may help in some instances with using a software where you download a [patient's] picture and edit it on the computer screen, which gives then a virtual image to help make their decision.”

Dr Hkeik says, however, that generally among Australian patients, the trout is out: new, natural-looking results are what patients are demandin, “a balanced, symmetrical look of youthful lips.  We can provide appealing shape creating a fuller and curved outline to thin lips, create a cupid’s bow, deliver definition to the border and create projection. This is particularly important in  women 35+ as, with age and volume loss, the top lip appears to lengthen as it flattens out.

“There are two ideals of upper vs. lower lip,” he says. “That is 1 to 1.6 or 50-50. The upper lip should ride about 0.6-1 mm in front of the lower lip on the profile view. ”

An ideal pout is hard to define, continues Dr Parmar. “It is a personal choice but in aesthetic sense a protrusion and protection is called pout. Different cultures have a different sense of pout, South Americans and Middle Easteners like the upper lip larger or equal to lower lip, other cultures like them other way around. A good pout is where the upper central part of lip is rolled out and has a visible cupid’s bow.”

What are the general rules to be observed when augmenting lips (eg. a surgeon writing for an American site I was just reading said that the lower lip should always be about 20 per cent bigger than the upper lip. When the latter is “pumped” and the lower lip left untouched, that’s when it becomes obvious “work” has been “done”.)

Dr Hkeik: We need to mimic nature and not design our own version of lips. 1:1.6 is ideal. A

Dr Parmar: Again it is all about shape and size, depending on the size of your upper and lower face and oval or square faces the size of upper lip varies, but as a general rule the lower should be more then upper by 20%. The trend has changed and we are finding the generation X likes bigger upper lips.

Apart from making lips look fuller and younger, what other benefits does lip augmentation have (eg does it help offset and prevent more lip lines forming?)

Dr Parmar: There is an argument that using dermal filling injections actually stimulates collagen formation so that subsequent treatments will be less frequent and require less quantity of product.  We often find that, in fact, a patient is happy with subsequent treatments and, rather than reduce the amount of product, looks at other areas, such as eyes, forehead and the mid face.

Are there different “rules” for women of different ages when having lip augmentation?

The general rule is that an overdone result is never appealing, so when in doubt, under correct and plan a further treatment later if necessary.

How many men on average – if any – would approach you for the procedure.

Very few – this is still a female-dominated procedure, although we have corrected many asymmetries after accident, illness or removal of skin cancer, for example. Men generally are not as diligent as women in following up their treatments, so permanent filler is often a good option, after they have achieved the appearance they want with the temporary product.

What Mondeal fillers are used in lip augmentation?

Esthélis is used in the upper lip area for lines or wrinkles, and in the lip boarder to reduce feathering of lipstick and create definition to the shape.

Fortélis is used to create lip volume, to create projection or ‘pout’, and give dimension to the lip body for a kissable youthful lip. We also use Fortélis to fill any depressions at the side of the mouth.

And if you have already tried dermal fillers and want a result that last for 7+ years, I would use Aquamid – the only permanent filler available in Australia.

Is Aquamid appropriate for use in this area, to achieve as-good-as-permanently fuller lips? If so, I imagine it would only be used after a woman has had lip augmentation previously with fillers that last months rather than years and knew the shape suited her.

Exactly. Although Aquamid as well as temporary fillers can be reduced / removed, the ideal situation is to establish the treatment that gives the best outcome using right product and slowly building the volume with permanent fillers,

What is someone asked for Aquamid in the lips straight off the bat?

It is preferred that we use temporary fillers to establish a treatment plan and, when satisfied, use the permanent product.  Generally I would not treat with Aquamid at the first appointment.

If a patient is unhappy with the shape of their lips, can the fillers be “dissolved”?

Yes – there is an injection that can ‘dissolve’ Hyaluronic Acid – it’s called Hyaluronidase. It is an enzyme that inactivates hyaluronic acid by breaking down its polymeric structure. But it’s not pleasant and we would rather go forward slowly that give a client a lip correction she wasn’t happy with.  So we under-correct and then make a follow up appointment if necessary.

The Hyaluronidase injections can be done several days after the initial treatment when any swelling has reduced.  Localized allergic reactions to hyaluronidase were frequent in clinical studies on this subject and patients with a history of allergy to bee venom or to the preservative should not be injected.

In relation to Aquamid, again the product can be removed but it’s not the preferred option. Some experienced injectors will complete the treatment with saline solution to imitate the result and then, a couple of days later, will repeat the procedure with the permanent filler.  Like a trial run. This is common with non surgical nose correction.

Although doctors are often reluctant to comment on celebrities, are there any whose lips they particularly admire/dislike (where it’s clear from before and after photos that something has been done) as a point of reference

Dr Hkeik: Jennifer Aniston has very natural lips (she has had some filler in the past) but looked good. Lesley Lohan has definitely gone overboard.

Dr Parmar: A few names come to mind like Angelina Jolie, Scarlet Johansson and Jessica Beal which are often mentioned in terms of model desire lips but there are equal number of patients mentioning “I don’t want Angelina’s lips or Pamela’s lips”.

Any other information or observations on the topic would be most welcome.

Dr Hkeik: Ensure there is harmony between lips and rest of face.

Remind patient about lip hydration, Hint: use chloromycetin eye ointment for dry and cracked lips.

Lipstick bleeding is easily fixed with soft fillers like Esthélis.

Address the support of the lip in people over 40s as well as the lips (ie lip commissure, marionette, philtrum) otherwise the lips would not sit nicely on the patient’s face.

Dr Parmar: As a general rule I spend time before the procedure understanding the needs of the patient and discussing various products available. I also prefer they bring a picture of a desired lip shape and size so I know exactly what is in their mind as some patients can’t explain the shape and size they want. Also I am a strong believer in slowly increasing the volume and matching it with rest of their features.

Dr Hkeik – All Saints Cosmedical – Darlinghurst and Parramatta www.allsaintscosmedical.com.au

Dr Parmar – Manly Cosmetic and Laser Clinic – Manly, Canberra – www.manlycosmeticlaser.com.au

Plump up that pout!

Fatten up those lips with these perky plumping products for a pout to rival Miss Jolie.

By Aimee Leabon

The best…Lip Scrubs

First things first, you need to prep your lips before slathering on the good stuff. Invest in a lip scrub to buff away any chapping before the plumping process.

Lush Lip Scrubs, $9.95

Made from caster sugar and organic jojoba oil, this natural lip scrub comes in three flavours to gently slough off rough skin revealing smooth, soft lips.

The Body Shop Lip Scuff, $19.95

Finally, a scrub that’s in a convenient stick! A fusion between a balm and an exfoliant, slick this on for supple lips if scrubbing in circular motions isn’t your thing.

Smashbox Lip Exfoliant, $26.95

A perfectly edible peppermint and sugar lip scrub that smells good enough to eat. Poppy seeds and sugar granules gently remove dry, flaky skin while shea butter and jojoba leave your lips in mint condition.

Philosophy Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub, $32.00

Enriched with natural butters and oils, this winner of a scrub exfoliates dull, chapped skin for flawless, moisturised lips. Keep your pout in kissable condition by polishing once a week.

Jane Iredale Sugar and Butter Lip Duo, $54.00

A double-duty product, prep your lips with the beeswax and organic brown sugar exfoliant end before nourishing and replenishing your pout with the tinted lip plumper. Pack it in your purse for a perfect pout when you’re on the go.

The best…Lip Plumpers

Swipe one of these lip enhancing products on for a bee-stung effect that’s so authentic, your colleagues will think you’ve popped out for a filler.

Sally Hansen Lip Inflation Plumping Treatment, $15.45

A clear gloss with a swelling formula that works to increase micro-circulation for fuller, supple lips. Prepare yourself for a tingling feeling, that’s the peppermint, ginger and cinnamon getting to work. It contains vitamin A and E too.

Napoleon Perdis Love Bite Lip Plump, $25.00

The capsicum pepper and cinnamon in this balm stimulates the blood vessels for a perky, swollen effect, while the menthol and jojoba soothes and smoothes. A serious lip pumper, whack this on if you want maximum volume.

Spa Sciences Maxi-Lip Enhancement Lotion, $32.95

This lightweight hydrating lotion moisturises lips and restores collagen for a pout that packs a punch. The active ingredient oligopeptide has been clinically proven to improve lip fullness by 40 per cent within 29 days of use. Brilliant.

DuWop Lip Venom, $40.00

Feel the tingle as soon as this touches your lips. The mix of essential oils and cinnamon, wintergreen and ginger causes the blood to rush to the surface for a flushed, swollen look. Dab on and wait a few moments for a rosy, shiny pout.

Gatineau Defi Lift 3D Perfect Design Revolumising Lip Care, $66.00

The Rolls Royce of lip plumpers, this sheer balm lifts and firms lips while the revolumising ingredient Volulift instantly gives your lips an added boost. Plump, moisturise and smooth your lips in one simple step.

The best…Coloured Plumpers

If you’re after a coloured plumping product and want to cut out the middle man, opt for one of these two-in-one products for full, fabulous lips.

Clinique Full Potential Lips Plump and Shine, $37.00

Want triple-action plumping power? Packed with capsicum extract, ginger and magnifying pearls, you won’t be able to leave the house without this pretty product. Slip into your clutch for instantly full, lush lips and a dose of colour that lasts for six hours.

YSL Shiny Lip Plumper SPF 10, $45.00

Non-sticky in texture, this gloss glides on flawlessly for a bold wash of colour and a visibly swollen appearance. And all without the tingling sensation! Available in three gorgeous shades. I think it’s time to invest.

bareMinerals Buxom Lips Plumping Lip Polish, $60.00

A gloss that really has it all. Containing peptides to plump your pout and antioxidant vitamins A and E to keep lips smooth and protected, expect a high shine finish and a sheer hint of colour (and a few compliments).

Fusion Beauty Lip Fusion Colourshine, $70.00

Infused with revolutionary technology to plump lips instantly, this pearler is worth every penny. Dehydrated marine collagen microspheres are absorbed by the lips to seek out the body’s natural moisture. As soon as they are re-hydrated, they plump and swell the lip tissue. Amazing.

By Terry Gloss Delectation, $78.00

Spoil yourself with this divine gloss. Boasting intense shine and immediate hydration, the active extracts of cherry pit oil, plum and strawberry butter promote vibrant, voluminous lips and an overall glow. Treat yourself.

The best…Online Buys

Time poor? Own a laptop and a Mastercard? Jump online and snap up one of these top lip enhancing products for cushiony full lips and door to door service.

ModelCo Illusionist Lip Enhancer Kit, $22.00

Create a fuller pout with a swipe of this skin coloured soft wax pencil. Simply line just outside your natural lip line and colour in your lips leaving the centre. Slick on a gloss for a shiny finish and to seal in colour and you’re done!

www.modelco.com.au

Soap & Glory Sexy Mother Pucker, $21.95

Launching in Australia this month comes this lip plumping wonder from Soap and Glory. Applying this extreme gloss can amp up the volume of your lips by 10x, so it’s no surprise it’s officially the fastest-selling lip plumper in the UK. Add this to your shopping basket, pronto.

www.kitcosmetics.com

Too Faced Lip Injection Extreme, $51.95

A scientifically formulated plumping serum that with continued use, can increase volume and fullness to your lips permanently. Need we say more? Use in the morning and evening on clean, dry lips for a vibrant, perky pucker.

www.meccacosmetica.com.au

by Jenni Gilbert

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