The Beauty Of Suncare

Posted: Tuesday 28 September 2010 12:41pm

If the threat of skin cancer isn’t enough, the detrimental effect the sun has on your youthful appearance should have you stepping inside quickly.

“The sun produces photo-damage and photo-ageing,” says Associate Professor Greg Goodman from The Skin and Cancer Council, Victoria. “It appears as yellowing of skin, sagging, deep lines and wrinkles, leathering, blotchiness and a dry, scaly complexion. You’ll also see freckles, brown spots, blood vessels, and fragile skin that bruises easily.”

Blame it on Ultra Violet (UV) light. “UV rays age skin in two ways,” adds Dr Cathy Reid, Honorary Secretary of the Australasian College of Dermatologists. “UVB, the tanning rays, have a lag effect on skin, showing on the epidermis as muddy skin, blotchiness and brown spots, years after initial damage.”

UVA rays penetrate deeper, degrading collagen and elastin within the dermis. “These are the structural proteins of skin,” explains Reid. “They give it elasticity and fullness.” UVA exposure causes sagging, crepiness, lines and wrinkles.

So it’s a no brainer. You need top quality, broad-spectrum sun protection. While traditional physical sunscreens provide ideal UVA and UVB protection, they have sometimes been heavy and occlusive, causing blemishes and irritation. Some also leave a white film, not ideal under make-up. Chemical sunscreens are also highly effective, but have been known to cause irritation.

However, both have tremendous pros that outweigh their cons and as such, today’s advanced products actually contain both physical and chemical blocks, and are formulated to cancel out allergic reactions and white streaking, sitting beautifully under make-up.  

FACE FIRST

Make Up-Friendly Sunscreens
Your face comes under direct assault, so it’s essential to apply protection daily, even in winter (UV rays penetrate even dark clouds). Choose sunscreen that won’t interfere with foundation (see below for our tried and tested choices). Apply 15 minutes before make-up to allow it to settle.

• Jan Marini AntiOxidant Daily Face Protector SPF15, $88
• Olay Complete Defence Daily UV Moisturising Lotion SPF30+, $14.69
• Mecca To Save Face SPF30+ Hydrating Facial Sunscreen, $45

But don’t forget your neck and décolletage; they’re just as vulnerable as your face, and one of the first areas on the body to display sun-induced pigmentation, age spots and uneven tone. The sides and back of your neck should be well protected too, especially if hair is shorter.

What’s not to love about one less step in the morning? A moisturiser that contains stabilised broad spectrum UV protection makes perfect sense for the harsh Australian climate.

• L’Oreal Paris UV Perfect Advanced UVA and UVB Protector SPF30+, $24.95
• True Solutions Total Age Protector SPF30+, $60

Making Up (it’s not hard to do)
Today’s foundations promise a flawless complexion, and deliver it with sun protection. Mineral foundations are perfect examples.

“They contain natural physical sunscreens, like zinc oxide and titanium oxide,” explains L’Oreal Paris Make-up Artist Rae Morris. “The beauty is that they won’t leave a white film on the skin, nor will they irritate. They apply seamlessly to the face, neck and décolletage.”

• L’Oreal Paris True Match Minerals, $37.45

Traditional foundations deliver the goods too, with clearly labelled SPF in skin-perfecting formulas. Remember though, because we tend to apply foundation sparingly, you will still need to wear sunscreen under your make-up. Bear in mind too, that applying foundation with SPF15 over moisturiser with SPF15 doesn’t equate to SPF30.

“For safety’s sake, assume that protection lasts only as long as the lowest SPF formula applied,” advises Morris. “Once that time expires, reapply just as you would any other sunscreen.”

• Yves Saint Laurent – Matt Touch Foundation, SPF10  # 2, $75.00
• Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation SPF15, $75
• Invisible Zinc Tinted Daywear SPF30+, $32
• Perricone MD Active Tinted Moisturiser SPF15, $110
• Philosophy The Supernatural SPF15, $72
• La Mer SPF18Fluid Tint SPF15, $165.

Sun Protection sans Oil Slick
Troubled skin should seek formulas that mattify oily complexions and won’t clog pores or add to sebum imbalance. Look for ingredients like micronised silica powder, used by Neutrogena. It absorbs excess sunscreen oil to avoid pore congestion. Micro-sponge expertise employed by Dermalogica, is another winner in controlling skin’s oil flow and providing all day matt coverage.

• Neutrogena Healthy Defence SPF30+, $17.95
• Dermalogica Day Defense System Oil Free Matte Block SPF20, $64

Lip Service
With their protruding nature, lips are vulnerable to UV damage, the bottom lip particularly so. Sunburn, chapping, dryness and pigmentation aside, lips are highly vulnerable to skin cancers as they have a greater blood supply. Strong sun protection, constantly and regularly applied, is paramount (SPF is easily compromised here as we continually eat, drink or lick lips).

When buying lip colour, ensure it contains protection too, and apply it after your SPF lip balm.

Hint: Not only does your SPF lip balm provide protection, it creates a perfect base for lip colour. “It gives the pigment something to cling to, and improves longevity of wear,” says Lipstick Queen’s Poppy King.

• Dr Spiller Biocosmetic Aloe Vera Lip Balm, $SPF15, $15.70
• Laura Mercier HydraTint SPF 15, $40
• By Terry Baume de Rose Lip Care Wand SPF 15, $92
• Bobbi Brown Treatment Lip Shine SPF15, $46

Are You Blushing?
Even blush is getting in on the SPF act. We love Invisible Zinc Tinted Lip + Cheek Balm SPF30+, $18. It imparts a just-pinched glow to cheeks and a physical, broad-spectrum block.

Handy Work
Hands are constantly in use, and being washed, which rinses away sunscreen. They can age quickly, with skin becoming thin, pigmented, lined and crepey.

Apply protective hand moisturiser several times daily, and again after every time you wash them.

“Wear gloves for driving, bike-riding, taking walks, or whenever they’re exposed,” says Reid.

• Ella Bache Great 30+ Handsaver SPF 30+, $38.

Soothe and Smooth
Health concerns aside, sunburnt peeling skin is never attractive, nor is it comfortable. If you do suffer too much sun, replenish and rehydrate with an aloe-rich moisturiser.

• Clinique After Sun Rescue Balm, $39
• Vaseline Intensive Care Aloe Vera Replenishing Moisturiser, $7.29

Reversing the damage?
IPL Rejuvenation is efficient at relieving some signs of photoageing, minimising brown spots, redness, broken capillaries and freckles. It can also improve skin’s texture, as it triggers collagen remodelling. Between one and five treatments are required, costing between $440 and $600 each.

Fraxel Re:store Dual Laser is another option. The non-ablative laser destroys damaged cells without harming healthy ones, so down time is minimised.  Pigmentation is reduced and the complexion left more uniformed and youthful looking after two to five treatments (around $750 to $1350 each).

by Shonagh Walker

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