The A-Z of Skincare Ingredients
Posted: Monday 5 April 2010 11:23am
Ingredients in skincare have become complex and are often baffling to the consumer. To cut through the confusion, we look at common skincare ingredients, explain what they do, and give an example of the product containing these ingredients.
ACIDS
There are many acids used in skincare, often derived from plants, milk or molasses. They are used for exfoliating, skin smoothing, dryness and brightening. Others do not have any exfoliating effects.
According to Dr Geoffrey Heber of Sydney’s Heber Davis Clinic and founder of skincare brand Ultraceuticals, “Acids are forms of base molecules as are esters, salts and alcohols. Different acids do not have common effects.
“An aqueous and quite acidic pH2 serum of L-ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) will not have any exfoliating effects. Whereas, a pH2 salicylic acid cream will have exfoliating effects at a high enough concentration,” he comments.
“Alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, at high enough concentrations, result in moisturisation and stimulation of water-holding gels in the skin which cause plumpness, firmness and wrinkle reduction.”
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, also known as AHAs, or glycolic or lactic acid, are derived from plant sources and milk. Glycolic comes from sugar cane, and lactic from milk. They work to exfoliate the skin and give a fresher appearance, reducing fine lines.
Says Joseph A Lewis II, President and CEO of Pharma Cosmetix Research and Founder of MD Formulations, “There is nothing better to this day than AHAs for exfoliating the skin and increasing moisture content in the skin. That’s why MD Formulations has been around for more than 25 years. Nothing does it like AHAs, and nobody has outperformed it to this day.” See MD Formulations Skin Perfection Gel, $80. Alpha-H Rejuvenating Cream, $87.95
Ascorbic Acid – Vitamin C – helps rebuild collagen fibres, and in some preparations may have lightening effect. See Ultraceuticals Ultra C Treatment Cream, $125, with 23% vitamin C.
Alpha Lipoic Acid – Improves inflammation and ageing as it reduces sugar stored in the connective tissues, known as glycation. Reduces lines and wrinkles. See Perricone MD Hydrating Nutrient mask, $145.
Beta Hydroxy Acids – Also known as salicylic acid, used to help dry skin. See Neutrogena Deep Clean Facial Wash, $13.65. NCD Concentrated Clarifier, $71, with beta and alpha hydroxy acids.
Essential Fatty Acids Commonly known as omega 3 (alpha-linolenic acid) and omega 6 (linoleic acid) and play an important role in cell membrane structure: they are necessary for the proper functioning of body cells, and influence the shape and fluidity of membranes. They help preserve moisture and have anti-inflammatory properties. See Murad Perfecting Night Cream, $72.
Gamma Linoleic Acid – Comes from borage oil and improves cell sensitivity to sugar, helping fight glycation and ageing. See Wildcrafted Age Defying Essence, $71.35.
Hyaluronic acid – A fantastic hydrator – can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Dr Le Winn’s Line Smoothing Complex Corrective Line Filler, $71.35.
Kojic Acid – A skin brightening agent from mushrooms that helps skin become more evenly toned. See Jan Marini Bioglycolic Lightening Gel, $68.
Lacto-bionic Acid – A potent anti-oxidant derived from milk sugar, it works to smooth the skin. See Bakel Lactobionic Anti-oxidant Formula, $225.
L-ascorbic acid – also known as vitamin C – an essential nutrient and potent anti-oxidant. See DermaQuest Skin Therapy Vitamin C (20%), $115, formulated with ascorbic acid.
Lactic acid – an AHA derived from milk or molasses. It is used to smooth and soften dry skin. Priori Barrier Repair Complex, $120.
Malic acid – From apple, this is an AHA that aids in exfoliation. See Bakel Malic Lightening Solution, $135.
Salicylic acid – See Beta Hydroxy Acids
ANTI-OXIDANTS
Anti-oxidants are substances that our body uses to protect itself from free radical damage, which is caused by scavenger molecules that attack healthy skin cells, usually from smoking, sun damage, pollution and alcohol consumption. Anti-oxidants help mop up this damage.
Says Joseph A Lewis II, “Anti-oxidants help eliminate oxidative stress, which is fundamental, as this stress is really the fundamental cause of ageing in the first place.”
Bearberry – Extracts from these leaves are known for its skin brightening properties. See Ultraceuticals Even Skintone Serum, $85.
Co-Enzyme Q 10 – This free radical fighter is produced by the body, but declines with age. It is great for energizing the skin. See Nivea Visage Anti-Wrinkle Q10 Plus Daycare, $18.98. It’s interesting to note that the hottest new ingredient, the synthetic Idebenone is a mimic of co-enzyme Q-10.
Says Joseph A Lewis II, “Idebenone works differently to vitamin anti-oxidants. It’s on the respiratory chain and it mimics co-enzyme Q-10, but it’s a thousand times more potent than co-enzyme Q-10.”
Grapeseed extract – Extracted from whole grapeseeds, it is an effective anti-oxidant that supports collagen structures. See Dr Brandt Lineless Cream, $150.
Pomegranate – Extremely high in anti-oxidants and rich in vitamins A, B, C and K. See Murad Moisture Silk Eye Gel, $75.
Green tea – A powerful polyphenol anti-oxidant with anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties. L’Occitane Green Tea Body Milk, $39.95.
Rosehip – Extracted from wild rosehips, it is rich in fatty acids (omega 3, 6, 9) and promotes rapid healing and nourishing. See Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil, $35.
Resveratrol – Anti-oxidant from red wine which hydrates and supports collagen. See Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Crème, $410.
BUTTERS, OILS & LIPIDS
These rich, emollient substances are often derived from nuts and seeds, although can be man-made. Because of their rich, luxurious feel, many are used on dry, chafed and inflamed or delicate skin. Lipids are a large and diverse group of biologically important molecules that are essential to life. Fatty acids, fats, oils, waxes, steroids and phospholipids are types of lipids.
According to Heather Vounnou, Senior International Instructor for The International Dermal Institute, “Lipids are naturally produced by the skin and serve to maintain the skin’s natural barrier function. Evening primrose oil and borage seed oil are good examples of oils that contain these vital lipids, ceramides and fatty acids.”
Major roles include cell membrane structure, energy storage and cell communication. They are used in skin care products as an emollient.
Ceramides – a naturally occurring skin lipid found within the cell membrane, it is great for hydrating and anti-ageing. See Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, $160 for 60 capsules.
Coconut – Rich in vitamin E, coconut oil is rich and perfect for dry, flaky, sensitive skins. Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula Daily Facial Lotion, $12.99.
Evening Primrose – The oil is rich in the omega 6 fatty acids: linolenic acid (LA) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Aside from being wonderful on ageing skin, Evening Primrose Oil is used to treat skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis and eczema. See Trilogy Age Proof Nutrient Plus Firming Serum, $42.95.
Glyco-lipids – Plant derived ceramides that help the skin retain moisture. See Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster, $100.
Jojoba – Extracted from seeds in the jojoba shrub, the oil is non-greasy and used as an emollient. Wonderful for strengthening and nourishing sensitised skin. See Ella Bache Crème Jojoba, $77.
Lanolin – Found in sheep’s wool, lanolin or is a fat made by the sebaceous glands of sheep and extracted from their wool. Used for extremely dry skin. See Ella Bache Crème Tomate, $73.
Macadamia – Comes from macadamia nuts, and is rich in vitamins, minerals and fatty acids. Great on mature or inflamed, sensitive skin. See Exquisit Organics Face mask, $35 with macadamia and clay.
Mineral Oil – Used as an emollient and skin protector, mineral oil creates and barrier to the skin, limiting moisture loss. See Johnson’s Baby Oil with Aloe Vera, $8.29.
Olive – Rich in oleic acid Omega 9, it contains the natural moisturiser squalene and is great for sensitive, acne-prone or prematurely aged skin. See Thalgo Terre & Mer Vital Balm with Olive Oil, $57; L’Occitane Olive Tree Organic Moisturising Face Lotion, $39.95.
Shea butter – Deeply hydrates and protects skin, and only comes from the karate nut from the Shea tree in Africa. See L’Occitane Shea Butter Ultra Rich Face Cream, $56.95.
Wheatgerm – High in vitamin E, it nourishes and hydrates ageing skin. See EmerginC Complexion Perfector, $109; Wildcrafted Rejuvenating Night Cream, $39.40.
COLLAGEN
Supporting fibres located in the dermis that provide strength, structure, volume. Topical collagen moisturises and hydrates but you cannot replace lost collagen in skin with skincare creams. Says Heather Vounnou, “Collagen molecules are very large in size which makes it impossible for them to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Usually when collagen is found in a formulation, its only purpose is to hydrate the skin’s surface.” L’Oreal Paris Collagen Re-Plumper Day Cream, $35.95.
Marine Collagen – Derived from marine life with containing special amino acids that help build collagen. Great for ageing and sensitive skin. See Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, $199.50; Thalgo Marine Collagen Cream, $75.
Swertia Japonica Extract – Works to repair damaged collagen. See Pola B.A. The Cream, $458.
Yac Extract – Derived from Mugwort, it helps reduce glycation in skin which can result in wrinkling, collagen hardening, skin yellowing, sluggishness. See Pola B.A, Cream, $458
ENZYMES
Enzymes are protein molecules essential to life. They speed up chemical reactions within biological cells. Used to speed up the removal of dead skin cells, and treat acne, pigmentation, wrinkles.
Bromelian – An enzyme from pineapple that boosts exfoliation. Alba Hawaiian Pineapple Enzyme Facial Scrub, with natural pineapple enzymes, $16.95.
Papain – Comes from papaya, this enzyme has a keratin protein digesting ability that helps exfoliation. See Jan Marini Green Papaya Concentrate Skin Cleanser, $74.
DNA Repair enzymes – have been shown o diminish the effect of harmful UV radiation, reduce fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin pigmentation and reverse cellular DNA damage. See Priori Cellular Recovery Serum with DNA Enzyme Complex, $220.
HUMECTANTS
Humectants are ingredients that attract and hold water, which may come from the air, moisturisers, showers or baths. Skin that is low in humectants is often dry, flaky and brittle. Says Heather Vounnou, “There is a wide range of ingredients that help skin retain water or moisture. One group of water-binding agents can mimic the skin’s actual structure and can be of benefit in a formulation. These include ceramides, lecithin, lactic acid, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids. No single one of thee is preferred over another because even though they are all effective, none of them can permanently change the actual structure of the skin.”
Honey – From the nectar of flowers, honey is extremely hydrating. See Burt’s Bees Radiance Day Cream, $39.95.
Glycerin/Glycerol – Probably one of the most widely used additives in cosmetics and shampoos to deal with dryness. It keeps the skin soft and supple and helps reduce inflammation. See Neutrogena Moisture SPF15, $13.21, and Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream, $7.48.
Lecithin – Extracted from egg yolk or soybeans, it is a powerful humectant, attracting water to it, keeping skin moist, soft and flexible. Dr Hauschka Firming Mask, $96.
Seaweed – Rich in minerals, seaweed nourishes and moisturizes the skin. See Thalgo Marine Algae Cleansing Bar, $33.
PEPTIDES
“Peptides are a short chain of protein amino acids that act as signaling molecules,” explains Heather Vounnou. “They are naturally found in the body but after 50 years of research you will now be able to find them in skincare formulations where they are considered to be one of the most popular categories of cosmeceutical ingredients. “Peptides have a variety of functions, primarily they help to stimulate collagen, combat what is known as Advanced Glycation End product formation, which is a metabolic process that damages collagen in the body, and reduce pigmentation.” See Dermalogica Age Smart Dynamic Skin Therapy, $112.
Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 Also known as Argireline, this synthetic peptide claims to have similar effects similar to Botox. Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is said to inhibit the release of neurotransmitters, relaxing facial tension and fine lines. See DermaQuest Peptide Mobilizer, $298.
Creatine – A natural micro-peptide found in the skin, which stimulates skin cells to counteract collagen breakdown. See Nivea DNAage Cell Renewal Day Cream, $25.95.
Matrixyl – A peptide chain than stimulates the development of the dermal layer of the skin. See DermaQuest Retexture Serum, $110.
Niacinamide – Is part of the vitamin B group and is water soluble. Used in anti-ageing products, studies have shown it stimulates collagen synthesis and increases ceramide and fatty acid levels in skin. See Olay Regenerist Revitalising Serum, $32.49; EmerginC Crease Emulsion, $120.
Soy peptides – Stimulate collagen production. See Alpha H Daily Poly-oxidant with skin lifting peptides, $79.95
VITAMINS
Often a form of anti-oxidant, these biological vitamins are necessary for good skin health. Says Joseph A Lewis II, you can’t get these vitamins unless you eat them through your food and nutrition or put them on your skin.
According to Dr Geoffrey Heber, “Numerous vitamins play an important role in the skin but not all vitamins are antioxidants. Some vitamins, such as vitamins C and E, have antioxidant effects. Others, such as vitamin A, act as regulators of cell and tissue growth and differentiation and others, such as vitamin D, act as regulators of mineral metabolism.
He adds, “It has been found that human skin is depleted of its natural vitamins C and E after UV exposure. It has also been shown that topical delivery of these vitamins can result in much higher levels in the skin than can be achieved by oral consumption. For these reasons, and as vitamins C and E are the most plentiful non-enzymatic antioxidants in the skin, they are the key vitamins in skin care.”
A – Great for reducing pore size, and oil gland congestion, Vitamin A helps reduce fine lines, and smooth dry skin. Look for retinol – an extract of vitamin A – and Retinyl Palmitate (also knows as vitamin A Palmitate) thought to be less irritating than retinol and able to smooth skin and reduce fine lines. See Jan Marini Factor A Cream, $88; and MD Formulations Vit A Plus range, especially MD Formulations Vit A Plus Intensive Anti-ageing Lotion, $180.
B1 Thiamine – often known as an “anti-stress vitamin” it plays an important role in maintaining healthy skin, hair and nails.
B5 Known as Panthenol – it helps to form the anti-oxidant co-enzyme A. Great for skin nourishment and repair. See DermaQuest Advanced B5 Serum, $110; Exquisit Organics Face Dew, with B5, $44. Bakel Q10 – B5 Cellular Revitaliser, $175.
B6 Also known as Pyridoxine - helps cell formation and maintains healthy skin and helps with skin disorders or inflammation.
B12 – Vital for nerve cell function and DNA synthesis, it helps energise the skin.
C – Best sources are from fruits and rosehips, it reduces pigmentation and age spots, refines pores and tightens, smooths and plumps skin improves strength of blood vessel walls. Says Dr Heber, “Vitamin C is popular in skincare because it has numerous effects in the skin additional to its antioxidant effect. In its pure form as L-ascorbic acid it reduces irregular pigmentation, stimulates collagen to smooth texture and increases ceramide production to improve moisturisation.” See Ultraceuticals C-10 Serum, $85; Danne Montague-King Direct Delivery Vitamin C, $159.
D – Helps regulate cell growth and supports the immune system.
E – Made by plants, the richest sources being wheat germ oil and sunflower oil. Makes skin soft and supple, reduces fine lines and improves skin texture. Says Dr Heber, “Vitamin E is a fat soluble antioxidant and protects lipids and cell membranes from oxidisation. It works synergistically with vitamin C to reduce irregular skin pigmentation. Ultraceuticals Ultra Moisturiser Eye Cream, $45; MonoDerma E5, $80, for 28 capsules.F Also known as evening primrose oil, it hydrates the skin and restores the lipid balance to the skin. See Nivea Visage Moisturisng Cleansing Wipes, $8.25, for mature skin
K – Builds skin strength and resiliency. Good for dark under-eye circles. EmerginC Multi-vitamin Serum + Retinol, $139.
by Kate Mahon
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