Pep Up Your Skin With Peptides

Posted: Monday 9 January 2012 02:24pm

When you talk to most dermatologists, the ingredients that keep come up when the conversation turns to serums and moisturisers that lift and the tone the skin are peptides.

If you haven’t added a peptide-rich moisturiser to your skincare routine by the time you reach your early 40s, the moment to act is now.

There’s nothing new about the link between peptides and skincare. In the 1970s, the US physician Dr Loren Pickart discovered that copper peptides were extremely effective in healing wounds and skin lesions.

But what really sets them apart from other anti-ageing powerhouses is that they reduce the formation of scar tissue while stimulating the skin’s natural ability to remodel itself. In short,peptides help damaged skin to look better.

Ageing is a complex process and many scientists believe that time isn’t the only factor involved. An increasing number of researchers believe that ageing is a “manageable disease” – technically, wrinkles are small wounds that have healed improperly – which is why copper and other peptides are so successful in smoothing and toning the skin.

More…

• One Month To Younger Hair
• Lifts At Any Price

A major study by the Tulane University School of Medicine showed that cream containing peptides produced a visible improvement in fine wrinkles. Ground-breaking research that was backed up by another study from the University of Pennsylvania, which also clearly demonstrated that the regular use of creams containing peptides improved elasticity and thickness in the skin.

Since the mid-90s, copper peptides and other patented peptide complexes such as Matrixyl, Argireline and Amino-Peptide Complex have been finding their way into hundreds of anti-ageing creams and moisturisers. And with good reason. Peptides essentially act as messengers in the skin, allowing the epidermis and dermis to “communicate” more efficiently. Matrixyl has been proven to reduce wrinkle volume by over 30 per cent after 16 weeks of use.

Best of all, though, peptides offer gain without pain. Many anti-ageing treatments such as AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) irritate the skin in order to stimulate collagen and new skin growth. Peptides, on the other hand, prompt the skin’s natural rebuilding process without side-effects.

And because the ageing process is still not fully understood, peptides and other highly effective skincare ingredients such as Vitamin C and AHAs are increasingly being combine in “cocktails” to produce a new generation of results-oriented but gentler anti-ageing options. And who doesn’t want that choice?

WHICH PEPTIDE IS THAT?
* Copper Peptides. The “grande dame” of peptides in use in skincare. Found in: the Neova skincare range available from www.facetoday.com.au. The most intense treatment is Neova Creme De La Copper, an intense moisturiser that smooths the skin and make it more radiant and healthy.

* Matrixyl (or palmitoyl pentatpeptide-3). Developed by the pharmaceutical company, Sederma SA, and Procter & Gamble (P&G), the makers of Olay skincare, the joint creators claim that Matrixyl is just as effective against wrinkles as retinol but doesn’t cause skin irritation that can be a side-effect of using retinoids. Chemically, it is a chain of five amino acids attached to a fatty acid for better skin penetration and is structurallysimilar to the precursor of collagen type 1 in our own skin. Many studies have found that Matrixyl stimulates the production of collagen and elastin – the skin’s binding agents and that it is very effective in repairing sun-damaged skin. Another study, presented at the World Congress of Dermatology in Paris in 2002, rubber-stamped the fact that there is visible improvement in the appearance of wrinkles. Found in: Dermalogica Age Smart Dynamic Skin Recovery, $112.

* Amino-Peptide Complex. The star ingredient of Olay Regenerist line, amino-peptide complex debuted at the 61st Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology in 2003. It combines advanced peptide technology with Vitamins B and E to promote the cell renewal process. In clinical tests conducted by P&G with 200 women aged 35 to 60 following eight weeks of using Olay Regenerist, over 80 percent of the respondents said that their fine lines and crow’s feet were less noticeable and their skin felt smoother and more hydrated. Found in: Olay Regenerist Daily Revitalising Serum, Eye Lifting Serum and Intensive Night Revitalising Cream, all $32.49.

* Argireline ( or acetyl hexapeptide-3). Developed by the Spanish company, Lipotec, this is the peptide often used in creams that claim to “work like Botox”. Chemically speaking, it is a chain of six amino acids attached to an acetic acid, that is believed to work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters. In theory, when applied to the skin argireline relaxes tension in the face leading to a relaxation of facial lines and wrinkles. Nothing works like Botox, of course, which is injected into specific facial muscles around the eyes and forehead to give a smooth effect and it is a medical procedure. Argireline does not penetrate deeply enough to reach muscles. But like other peptides, it stimulates the growth of new skin and collagen. Found in: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Makeup, $76, Skinvitals Elixir Mask, $14.95 for 3 and Beautician’s Secret Wrinkle Eraser, $35.99.

* Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3. Another short chain peptide – three this time – that also promises plumping effects. Clinical studies have shown that it improves the skin’s firmness and moisture content and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Found in: Dr LeWinn’s Private Formula Ultra 4 range – Recovery Masque, $59.95, Eye Repair Cream, $64.95, Restorative Cream, $84.95, Rejuvenation Fluid, $74.95, and Regenerative Night Cream, $94.95.

* Poly-Collagen Peptides. A patent-pending peptide exclusive to Estee Lauder, it is composed of several peptide and collagen fragments. The company claims that it prevents the skin’s natural enzymes from deleting the effect of peptides on wrinkles. Found in: Estee Lauder Perfectionist CP+ Wrinkle Lifting Serum Corrector, $92.

Your say: Are you interested in peptides? What are your favourite anti-ageing creams? Share your tips below.

by Elisabeth King

Comments (0) Print Send to friend Share or bookmark this page