Launch Gallery

The How-To Of Mineral Make Up

Posted: Wednesday 7 July 2010 04:28pm

It not only perfects your complexion, hiding blemishes, open pores and pigmentation, but mineral make up offers natural and safe protection against the sun’s harmful UV rays.

The secret is in its formula, which – as its name suggests – is brimming with minerals, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, both of which provide a natural physical block against UV rays and are extremely healing to troubled skin.

While all skin types will benefit from the pure nature of mineral make up (there are no chemical or synthesised additives), those suffering from sensitivity, congestion, acne, rosacea or other sensitive skin conditions will find these formulas particularly lovely to use.

“The lack of synthetic ingredients means they are perfect for troubled skin,” says bareMinerals national trainer and make up artist Allie Clark. “Not only that, they are non-comedogenic [won’t clog pores] and they apply beautifully, thanks to the pure formulas and dense natural pigments that go a long way.”

“The minerals used in creating the make-up – in particular mica and zinc oxide – have anti-inflammatory properties to help heal skin and reduce redness.

“The powders are ultra-fine and gentle, so they minimise the risk of skin irritation, while providing great coverage.

“Many are also formulated with skin healing anti-oxidant vitamins, such as A and E, so will help calm angry skin while providing a day-long beautiful face.”

Tip: “Apply mineral make-up sparingly,” says Allie. “The pigments are concentrated and will impart a fuller coverage than ordinary make up formulas. You can always layer if you want a deeper colour or more opaque finish.”

HOW TO APPLY MINERAL MAKE UP

Base Camp
Mineral foundation leaves skin looking radiant and flawless and, with a little careful attention, is easy to apply.

Step One: “Shake a small amount of your mineral foundation powder into the lid of its tub,” advises Allie. “Now take your kabuki brush and swirl it into the lid, ensuring it is evenly but lightly covered with make up. Pretend that you are cleaning the lid of the tub with the brush, that should ensure even coverage.”

Step Two: “Lightly tap away excess product,” says Allie. “Then, buff the make up onto your face, really working it into skin. Begin on the outside of the face to avoid product overload. If you start on the nose, forehead and chin, you might find that you deposit a little too much product. Starting at the outside means any excess can easily be blended back into the hairline. Gradually and gently buff the foundation into your skin, working from the outside, into the T Zone.”

Step Three: “Ensure you work the product well in and around the nose and contours of the face,” says Allie. “Check your coverage. If you feel you need a little more coverage, reapply as before, but always be careful not to over-apply.“

Try:
•    bareMinerals Matte Foundation, $79
•    Jane Iredale Amazing Base Loose Minerals SPF20, $79
•    Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Natural Loose Mineral Foundation, $67.50
•       Nude by Nature Natural Mineral Cover, $39.95,

Do I need to conceal?
Mineral foundation should cover most flaws and imperfections well, even irregular skin tone or pigmentation, but if there is a certain blemish you want to disguise, reach for concealer.

It’s perfectly okay to use a cream or liquid concealer when you are using mineral foundation, but check the formula. “If it is too oily, it won’t mix with the minerals,” says Allie. “You need to use something that has a light, liquid texture, and always apply it before your mineral powder foundation, using a brush for precision application and blending seamlessly until the blemish appears to be the same colour as your skin.”

Try:
-    M.A.C Select Moisture Cover, $34

Alternatively, use a mineral concealer. “They are higher in zinc oxide, which means they cover more thickly,” explains Allie. “They also come in loose powder form, which means you must apply them over your foundation, using a small brush to blend perfectly.”

Try:
- bareMinerals Multi Tasking Minerals, $71

FEELING CHEEKY
“Apply mineral blush sparingly as it is rich in colour and will deepen after settling into the skin,” advises Allie. “A little goes a long way and one pot of blush could last you for years.” Employ the same ‘swirl, tap, buff’ technique that you did for foundation, but begin your application at the apple of the cheeks, blending up towards the temples.

Tip: Mix your mineral blush with a moisturiser to create a cream blush. “Take a peppercorn-sized dollop of moisturiser and sprinkle your powder blush over the top,” says Allie. “Mix into a creamy paste, apply to the skin using pads of the fingers blending with a ‘press and relax’ tapping motion so you don’t disturb the foundation.”

Try:
-    Bare Minerals Blush Beauty, $70
-    Jane Iredale Pure Pressed Blush, $50

BRONZING
As with blush, bronzer should be used sparingly and applied lightly. “Use what I call the ‘3-E’ technique,” advises Allie. “Sweep your brush in an ‘E’-shape from the centre of your forehead down to the ear. Then, sweep it from your ear along under the cheekbones towards the nose, without taking the colour too close to the nose. Finally, sweep the brush back to the ear and under the jaw line. You’re effectively drawing a ‘3’ on one side of the face and an ‘E’ on the other side. This will give you a naturally sun-kissed look.

Try:
-    bareMinerals Warm Radiance, $70
-    Mineralogie Matte bronzer Dispensing Brush, $79

MINERAL EYES
“Sensitive eyes will find mineral eyeshadow far gentler,” says Allie. “Layer application a little at a time. After a while, the colour will settle into your skin and adapt slightly to your natural skin tone, which means one shade will look different on every person.”

Mineral eyeshadow has less chance of creasing into the eyelid throughout the day, too.

“They don’t contain synthetic fillers or binders and they are free from waxes and talc – all you are getting is pure colour pigment colour,” says Allie. “This purity means that they have a natural affinity with the skin and so can hold for longer.”

Choose mineral mascara too, they are very nurturing to lashes. With flake- and chemical-free formulas, they are loaded with lash-friendly ingredients. Simply apply as you would your normal mascara, allowing individual coats to dry before applying another.

Try:
-    bareMinerals Eyeshadow, $44
-    Mineralogie Mineral Eyeshadow, $35
-    bareMinerals Big Tease Mascara, $44
-    Youngblood Outrageous Lashes Mineral Lengthening Mascara, $48.50
-    Jane Iredale Longest Lash Mascara, $65

LIP SERVICE
Stressed, dry lips will love mineral lip formulas. “They are hydrating and healing so they are perfect for chapped, dehydrated or sore lips. Even healthy lips will notice the benefits,” says Allie.

Try:
-    Bare Minerals Lip Gloss, $44
-    Mineralogie Lipstick, $38
> For more on lips check out Lips 101: 10 Top Lipsticks to De-Age Your Pout

THE TOOLS
For blush, lipstick and eyeshadow application, your regular make up brushes will suffice. However, to achieve complexion perfection with your mineral foundation, you need to use a kabuki brush, a specially angled brush that allows for precise blending of pigment and a beautifully polished finish.

“Imagine the skin as a mountain range with peaks and valleys and crevices,” says Allie. “Your kabuki brush will gently push the make up into the valleys and crevices and blend it over the peaks, evening out skin tone and texture and providing a flawless finish.”

Try:
-    Bare Minerals Kabuki Brush, $55

by Shonagh Walker

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